Flowers in season in Melbourne in November

1. Wait until frost has passed and the soil has warmed to about 15 to 18°C before planting.
2. Pick a spot with six to eight hours of direct sun and shelter from strong wind. In hot areas, afternoon shade helps.
3. Dig in compost and aged manure. Where summers are wet, go easy on compost and plant on a slight mound so tubers don't rot.
4. Put a sturdy stake in first, then plant the tuber 10 to 15cm deep beside it, eye facing up, about 60cm apart.
5. Don't water after planting unless the soil is bone dry. Water lightly once shoots appear, then weekly once plants reach 15 to 20cm.
6. In frosty or wet areas, lift tubers once the foliage dies back and store them cool and dry until spring.

Tip: In frost-free gardens with good drainage you can leave the tubers in the ground over winter instead of lifting them.

Sources: gardenexpress.com.au, gwynganadahlias.com.au, abc.net.au, theseedcollection.com.au, salisburygrange.com

1. Plant from late winter in frost-free areas, and wait for early spring where winters are cold and wet.
2. Choose full sun, sheltered from strong wind, in light, well-drained soil improved with compost and aged manure.
3. Set corms flat side down, growing tip up, 10 to 15cm deep and 10 to 15cm apart. Groups of six to nine look best.
4. Put stakes in at planting time so you don't spear the corms later. Tall spikes need the support once they open.
5. Keep the soil moist while they grow but never boggy. Feed with a flower fertiliser before flowering.
6. Plant a new batch every 4 to 6 weeks for a longer run of flowers.

Tip: Let the leaves brown and die off before cutting them back, as they feed the corm for next year.

Sources: diggers.com.au, gardenexpress.com.au, abc.net.au, ultimatebackyard.com.au, bunnings.com.au